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How to Replace Wooden Balusters with Iron the Easy and Cheap Way!

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Talk about a transformation from ’90s to modern! Updating our railing and balusters has been one of the easiest and biggest transformations to move our house away from 1993 to 2017.

We updated our stairwell railings by sanding down the orange-tinted oak railings and staining them with Minwax Dark Walnut.

Then we replaced our white wood balusters with new iron ones and it’s a totally different room!

If you missed our past updates, here they are:

Week 1: the design plan

Week 2: how to save $$$ on house paint

Bonus: our beadboard ceilings

See the final hallway makeover reveal!

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How to Replace Wooden Balusters with Iron

Click here to pin this project to pinterest!

How to remove wooden spindles

The first thing we did to make this project happen was remove all of our old white wood balusters.

Using our awesome RYOBI One+ Cordless Reciprocating Saw, we cut an angled slice through each baluster and twisted them until they popped off.

They were nailed in with a brad nailer, so we had to wiggle them until the nail came loose.

Updating our Railing and Balusters - Charleston Crafted
Updating our Railing and Balusters - Charleston Crafted

Then, we used an orbital sander to buff down the old orange-tinted oak finish on the railings.

We used three sander discs because of the amount of hidden gunk and sealant that was on these things and kept ruining the pads quickly.

We buffed them down all the way and then wiped everything with a damp rag.

Updating our Railing and Balusters - Charleston Crafted

The next step was to stain and seal the railings.

Like we said above, we used Minwax Dark Walnut that we have used on a ton of other projects and is basically the same color as our floors downstairs.

Be sure to check out our Dark Walnut by Minwax wood stain review!

This keeps a cohesiveness through the space and looks elegant.

Then we put five coats of matte polycrylic on the whole thing to keep them from getting warn down by people holding the railings.

Updating our Railing and Balusters - Charleston Crafted
Updating our Railing and Balusters - Charleston Crafted

How to install iron spindles

Finally we added our new iron balusters. We ordered them on eBay for a great price.

There were tons of design options, but because the space was so small, we didn’t want to have anything too elaborate. There’s also tons of options on Amazon.

We opted to alternate two designs (a single swirly on one, a basket in between two swirlies on the other) that were fairly simple and wouldn’t be distracting, yet were also elegant.

Updating our Railing and Balusters - Charleston Crafted

To add your own iron balusters, you need to cut them to size. Make sure to measure how deep the hole is in the railing, then how far the distance is between the railing and the bottom.

Add those together and cut your balusters from the center of your design to be that length.

For us, it was 30 inches. This is so you can slide the baluster up into the hole at the top, then drop it down to the board at the bottom.

Wondering how to cut iron balusters? We used our RYOBI reciprocating saw to cut the balusters to length.

They were easy to cut using a fine toothed saw blade. We marked the cuts by putting some Frog Tape where the cut should be and then buzzed it down.

Updating our Railing and Balusters - Charleston Crafted
Updating our Railing and Balusters - Charleston Crafted

Two things to remember when adding the balusters.

First, make sure you put the shoe on before you insert the baluster into the railing or you’ll have to pull it back out.

The other is to use hot glue to hold them in place.

When researching what kind of glue to use for iron balusters, most places say to use epoxy. But, that makes it VERY permanent and is unnecessary.

Put some hot glue onto the end of the baluster, then insert it into the railing hole and adjust it down.

The glue will dry quick so don’t mess around. Then put a little hot glue around the bottom of the railing and drop the shoe down to cover it up.

Updating our Railing and Balusters - Charleston Crafted
Updating our Railing and Balusters - Charleston Crafted
Updating our Railing and Balusters - Charleston Crafted
Updating our Railing and Balusters - Charleston Crafted

This is truly a transformation.

The project took a few days because there were several steps that required waiting (staining and sealing). But, it wasn’t difficult.

The cutting and removing of the old balusters took about an hour for our space.

Sanding took an hour and installation of the new balusters took about two hours total.

It was a lot quicker after the first few when we got in a rhythm.

Updating our railing and balusters made the space look incredibly different and so much more modern.

Wondering how much iron balusters cost? Here’s a cost breakdown:

Balusters – $16.66

2 x basket style @ $4.05 = $8.10

2 x single twist  @ $2.30 = $4.60

4 x flat shoe      @ $0.99 = $3.96

Other railing supplies (stain + sealant) had on hand

Iron balusters are also available at hardware stores like Lowes and Home Depot, but we found the best price on eBay.

**Note: this is just the cost for the railing and balusters at the top, since that hallway is what we are making over for the $100 Challenge.

We also updated the downstairs railings since we were already at it, but I didn’t include that in this total. I hope that makes sense!

We wrote a whole post on the cost of replacing wood balusters with iron!

Updating our Railing and Balusters - Charleston Crafted

Click here to pin this project to your pinterest board!

I am loving all of the updates on this challenge and next week is the reveal!

Updating our Railing and Balusters - Charleston Crafted
Yield: 1 staircase

How to replace wood balusters with iron

Active Time: 2 hours
Total Time: 2 hours
Difficulty: Medium
Estimated Cost: $100-250

Bored with your wooden staircase railing? Here is how to DIY upgrade your spindles with iron balusters!

Materials

  • New iron balusters
  • Hot glue or epoxy
  • Stain
  • Polycrylic
  • Brush

Tools

  • Reciprocating saw
  • Orbital sander

Instructions

  1. Use reciprocating saw to cut wooden balusters in half.
  2. Pull out of each end and discard.
  3. Sand railing and stain or paint. Coat with poly to seal. Allow to dry.
  4. Measure the height for each spindle.
  5. Use reciprocating saw to trim iron spindles to height.
  6. Stick spindle up into top railing.
  7. Add glue or epoxy into lower hole.
  8. Stick spindle in that hole.
  9. Allow to dry, taping if necessary.

Notes

Each spindle might be a different length. Measure each.

Recommended Products

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Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

 
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Robyne

Saturday 31st of October 2020

About to try this. Did you just use glue to hold it in place? The top hole is so much bigger than the baluster.

Sean

Sunday 1st of November 2020

We used hot glue and then later went back and replaced with 2 part epoxy. Epoxy is very strong. Here is exactly what we used - https://amzn.to/2JsCPPp

Josue Verona

Sunday 23rd of February 2020

Did you need to remove the handrail portion or the newels before sanding and staining?

Sean

Monday 24th of February 2020

Nope. We sanded in place. If you have any intricate details or curved features, you'll need to just hand sand with flexible paper to get into the grooves.

Gm

Thursday 13th of February 2020

Hello. Iā€™m interested in doing this project. By code, my spindles need to be no more than 4ā€ apart. If I take out my balusters and replace them with the thinner metal, they are greater than 4ā€ apart. How hard is the process of drilling new shaving holes in the railing and base trim?

Sean

Thursday 13th of February 2020

If your balusters are that much larger and you'd need closer spindles, the problem is going to be the holes you already have in there. It is going to be difficult to drill holes that are properly spaced out among the holes you'll already have in place. Seems to me like they would overlap and would offer no support. Your best bet might be to fill all the holes entirely then start over with new holes. New holes aren't necessarily hard, you just need to ensure that they are completely lined up on top and bottom.

Jocelyn

Wednesday 6th of November 2019

How to determine if you need a flat or angled shoe?

Morgan

Friday 8th of November 2019

Based on if the base of your baluster will be flat or angled!

Daniel

Saturday 2nd of November 2019

Hi! Thanks for this post. Today, we purchased the reciprocating saw and metal-cutting blades, but we're having a really hard time cutting the balusters. The saw quits cutting almost immediately when it makes contact with the metal. And I have the balusters placed between two vices, but it still comes loose. Do you have any best practices? Thank you!

Morgan

Tuesday 5th of November 2019

That might depend on the saw you bought and how much power it has. One thing I can think of is to make sure you're cutting with the baluster right up against the stop collar on the saw. If you're further near the end of the saw blade, it will cause vibration and might stop the saw. Also make sure the use good pressure when you're cutting to reduce the vibration.