Cutting boards get worn out pretty quick, especially if you’re using one made of wood. Luckily, they can also be restored pretty quickly. Morgan found a beautiful wood cutting board at Goodwill that needed a little love, so she brought it home and it’s now a beautiful display piece in our home. In less than five minutes, I’ll show you how to restore and old cutting board and then you can do it yourself in that same time.
The two things that usually need fixing with an old cutting board is the knife marks and the discoloration. First, work on the knife marks. I used two different grits of sandpaper for this part. First, I used 80 grit to buff away those deep marks and try to bring the whole board back to level height. Once I achieved that, I switched to 120 grit to give the board that nice smooth finish.
After sanding, I wiped away the dust particles and then poured a few arcs of cutting board oil to the surface.
Then, using a cloth, I spread the oil around evenly to the top and sides of the board.
After waiting 20 minutes, I wiped away excess and let it dry. See how the oil brought out the color without staining it? Ta-da, turned out pretty good.
If you’ve been dinging up your wooden cutting boards and want to restore them to their original glory, it’s super simple. This will give new live to your cutting boards and allow them to last a lot longer.
A big part of any renovation is budgeting. With our kitchen renovation, we had to choose what to spend on and what to save on. After deciding that I wanted expensive countertops, and that we would keep pretty much the same layout, it really made financial sense to keep our existing cabinets. We painted them and changed out the knobs, but I really wanted another upgrade – slow close cabinets! I think that it is a luxurious upgrade and I was very excited to figure out how easy it was to add slow close to my cabinets and drawers.
Slow Close Drawers
Come to find out, you don’t need to buy special cabinets to get slow close drawers and doors. They sell the hardware to do it on Amazon, making this a simple and fairly cheap, but big, upgrade. To make slow close drawers, you install one piece inside the cabinet on the wall and one piece onto the drawer. The old hardware remains in place. The slow close basically is the result of the piece on the drawer catching the piece on the wall and then slowly closing. It was supposed to be really easy, but as always seems to be the case with us, we ran into a glitch. The slow close rods for the wall are supposed to line up exactly with the drawer slides. Well, ours aren’t mounted straight onto the cabinet wall. Instead, there is a gap, so we first had to drill a piece of 1×4 onto the cabinet wall and then attach the slow close rod onto that piece of wood.
Then we had to line up the plastic piece that goes onto the outside of the drawer itself and make sure it lined up with the rod.
Once both were in place, you could try to slam the drawer closed and instead it would melt into the cabinets like butter.
I am obsessed with the new slow close features. It makes me feel so fancy, and I love love how inexpensive and easy it was! We are getting close to being done with our kitchen, y’all, and I can’t wait to share!
Y’all I am so excited to come to you and share our counter tops! I want to flood you with gorgeous photos but also want to explain the entire process to you. I will walk you through why we chose recycled glass counter tops, where we got them, how much they cost, and how we feel about them now (after just a week!)
Why did we choose Recycled Glass Countertops?
I love the unique look of these counter tops. I originally saw the all oyster version and thought that they were lovely and beachy. When I first spotted them with blue and green sea glass, I knew that it was exactly the beachy look that I wanted in our kitchen. I did some research and determined that they were durable and sustainable and knew that they would be a great decision.
Where did we get them?
We got our counter tops from Fisher Recycling. I found them via Instagram actually. We used them because they were local (in North Charleston, only 10 minutes from my work and about 30 minutes from our house). We worked directly with the owners and had an excellent experience. I would recommend them 100 times over.
What was the timeline?
First, we had an appointment at Fisher Recycling with Elizabeth, the owner. She told us to bring inspiration so I brought tile and paint swatches for the room. We got to play with all of the small pieces of glass that they had (the light green is wine bottles, dark green is coca cola glasses, and the blue is from an old window!) and make the exact formula. She then emailed me an exact quote for that mix and we went back and forth to get it to the price point that we wanted it at.
Next, we had to secure an installer. Fisher Recycling pours the counter tops but does not install them. We called and got quotes from several local places (Elizabeth gave us a long list) and we ended up going with Eugene’s Marble and Granite because of their price and their professionalism (they came on time! Shocking how rare that is.) This took about 3 weeks but only because we got so many quotes.
Once we were set on an installer, Elizabeth made us a sample of the counter tops with our formula. I picked it up and had the chance to make any edits that we wanted. At this point we made a 50% down payment and OKed them to move forward creating our slabs.
It took about a week for Fisher Recycling to pour our slabs. When they were done, I went by their facility and approved the slabs. They were gorgeous! They passed them off to the installer and 5 days later they were installed.
How much they cost?
The counter tops ran us about $70 a square foot. This did not include installation which was another $30 a foot.
So, they were more expensive than granite or quartz from a big box store, but to me the price difference was worth the look and uniqueness.
This project is easy to do. We were extending the crown molding into the kitchen that we put up in the rest of our first floor and wanted to take the time to add height instead of just running the crown molding behind the cabinets. It’s simple. I got a six foot 1×12 board and cut it into four 12 inch sections. Using L-brackets and a nail gun we attached them to the top of the cabinets and the wall.
Then, we ran the crown molding around the front of these and shot nails into the boards to make it look like they were part of the cabinets.
Then we painted the inside and out the same color as the cabinets and voila they all look like one.
Now the cabinets look SO TALL and it makes it feel like we have so much more height in our kitchen!
We have been preparing for our new counter tops this week (follow me on Instagram stories for live updates!). We will be back with all of the details about our new counter tops next week, but today I wanted to talk about our old laminate counter tops. Our installers offered us a $150 discount if we removed them ourselves, so you know that we decided to give it the old DIY try. We already painted our old cabinets so we wanted to be sure that we did not damage them!
We had a few steps in our laminate counter top removal process.
Removing the Laminate Counters
Removing the actual countertops was super simple. They are just screwed in place. If you look inside the cabinet up at the underside of the counter, we had small plastic diagonal pieces in each corner. These had one screw in them. I used a drill to remove the screws and then the countertops lifted right off – warning – they are heavy!
Removing the Laminate “Backsplash”
It took us a little while to figure out what the heck we were doing here so if you are reading this you will be ahead of us.
It helps if you understand this – it appears that our backspash was a 1×4 piece of wood screwed into the wall and then covered with plastic.
So, put your crowbar (or removal tool of choice) in the front seam of the laminate NOT on the seam with the wall. Hopefully this photo makes sense.
Remove just the plastic covering. Now you should see a board with screws. Un-screw them and pop them off the wall. You may need to use a knife to break the seal if it is stuck on with paint around the edges.
Removing the Sink & Faucet
The last step was to remove the sink. We purchased a new sink, faucet, and garbage disposal, so these all had to go. The sink itself had six brackets holding it in place that just needed one screw removed to come away. Then we had to disconnect all the stuff attached to it. First, we disconnected the disposal, which is as simple as using a screwdriver to give one half twist at the top and it pops off. Then we had to disconnect the drain pipe on the other side so that now the sink was free. The last step is to disconnect the two water lines from the faucet. Make sure to turn off the water first. We actually had to shut off the main water line as well because the connections in this old house don’t completely stop water from pouring out. Then we just pulled the whole thing out as one.
I am SO HAPPY to say bye bye to these countertops and can’t wait to share the new ones with you!